summer squash gratin at the lake

We spent a practically perfect week at Echo Lake in Montana with almost all of our offspring last week. 6 adults + 5 young children = never a dull moment. 

While we were there we celebrated Jonathon's birthday. The great part of having adult kids is they make the very best friends. The not so great part is that sometimes they don't live in the same city as I do. Jonathon fits into both of those categories. It's not often that we are together for his birthday so it was a treat for me to make a special meal for him. Nevertheless we were at the lake, so relaxed and sunny were the order of the day (who am I kidding? relaxed and easy is the way I cook) and there were the five little people with the likes and dislikes that come along with that set who were also at the party. So... it was simple but oh so good. We ate on the deck, in the sun, after a day of swimming and playing together. Life is so very good sometimes.

I made the summer squash gratin with salsa verde and gruyere that I had tagged from Food52. The weather was lovely and hot so I debated the wisdom of using the oven but decided the food would be worth the heat. It absolutely was! This gratin was even better than I thought it would be and I had pretty high expectations. Since we were at the cabin I used a bottled Salsa Verde - it was good (and certainly a lot simpler than making my own that day). Next time I would make fresh. It would be just that much better. Again claiming cabin-whatever, I used some especially good, very old cheddar instead of the gruyere (the local shop didn't stretch to gruyere - go figure), and since we had our gluten-free members to consider, used gluten-free bread to make the breadcrumbs. We barbeque'd some fresh sausages, steamed local corn on the cob, tossed a green salad and came away very satisfied.

summer squash gratin with salsa verde 
(adapted from Food 52)

2 pounds zucchini, sliced 1/8" thick
1 1/2 cups fresh breadcrumbs
3 Tbsp unsalted butter
3/4 cups thinly sliced shallot
1 tsp minced garlic
1 Tbsp thyme leaves
1 3/4 cups grated extra-old cheddar
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup salsa verde

Heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Toss the zucchini slices in a large bowl with 2 tsp sea salt and let sit for 10 minutes.

Place the breadcrumbs in a bowl. Heat a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the butter and cook for a few minutes until brown and nutty smelling. Pour the brown butter over the breadcrumbs (don't miss the brown bits!). After the butter has cooled for about a minute toss well.

Working by the handful, gently squeeze the squash to remove the excess water. Transfer the squeezed squash (love that!! ha) to a large bowl. Add the shallots, minced garlic, thyme, 1/2 cup salsa verde, and some pepper. Toss to combine. Add the cheese and half the butter coated breadcrumbs. Toss again. Place the mixture into a gratin dish or cast iron skillet. Top with the remaining breadcrumbs and bake for 35-40 minutes - until the squash is tender and the top is crisp.

mabo dofu

Every time I make this dish I think that I should share the recipe. Every time I decide not to - mostly because it is not a beautiful dish. But we love it so much that I have decided to overlook whatever challenges it may face in appearance and hope that others will judge it on its inherent merit as well. Some families pull out a box of Kraft dinner, some order pizza, some pb&j sandwiches, some a bowl of cereal, others whip up a batch of spaghetti but the most often requested, quick and easy meal at our house is easily mabo dofu. It is the epitome of quick comfort food for our family and takes no more than 30 minutes from walking into the kitchen to sitting down at the table, what I often turn to when time is short or I haven't planned very well. (You can surely see why I finally decided to share, and if you smelled it there would be no doubt at all.)


I learned to make this when we lived in Osaka when the kids were little. Mabo dofu converted me to eating tofu - before M.D. I abhorred it, all quivery and bland. It really didn't matter to me that it was reputed to be healthy, if you can't get it down it can't do you much good after all. But cooked this way, getting it down wasn't a challenge. Not for me or anyone else. It is mildly spicy and very tasty. Originally a Chinese dish, this version of the recipe has been 'japan-ized' - something the Japanese excel at. My friend Shoko taught me to make this. We have never looked back, except with fond memories.


mabo dofu
from my friend Shoko


2 packages of medium firm tofu,  drained and diced in 1/2" cubes
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2" piece of fresh ginger, grated
1 lb lean ground beef


Brown the beef with the onion, garlic, and ginger in a large fry pan or wok.


Stir together:
2 Tbsp red miso
1 Tbsp sugar
4 Tbsp soya sauce
1 1/2 cup dashi*
1 Tbsp mirin
1-2 tsp tobanjan


2 Tbsp cornstarch
1 Tbsp sesame oil


Add the mixture to the browned beef mixture. Add the diced tofu and simmer for 10 minutes. Mix 2 Tbsp cornstarch with 2 Tbsp water and stir into the meat-tofu mixture to thicken it slightly. Drizzle with 1 Tbsp of sesame oil and stir in gently.


Serve over short grain (Japanese style) California rice. This may seem like an unimportant distinction but it isn't. And in no case use instant rice. Just don't! Really don't.


Important note: Stir this very gently after adding the tofu. This is truly important or you risk making a rather plain looking dish look like something your dog ate and then rejected - after eating. (Is that put delicately enough?)


Dashi, miso, and mirin may not be in your pantry but are worth seeking out - even if all you use them for is mabo dofu. And if you want to do any Japanese cooking at all you will use them regularly. You may find them in the Asian aisle in large supermarkets but more likely (and therefore more easily) in an Asian market. The dashi can be replaced with chicken broth but you really need the mirin and miso.


*Dashi is a fish broth. For this recipe I always use dashi granules mixed into water - kind of like chicken bouillon.


Update: Jonathon suggested that I add this update "so that people don't blow their brains out in the grocery store looking" for the dashi and tobanjan. Tobanjan is simply a chili bean paste - the Japanese version. If you can't find it (and it can be tricky) go with a Chinese version. It will make little-to-no difference in the end. 
   
The brand of dashi that I use is Ajinomoto. You will probably need to look for dashi in an Asian market. the label will say "Hon Dashi Bonito Fish Stock". It comes packaged as individual serving sachets in foil packets or in small jars, bulk-style. Same/same. If you don't know an Asian market or simply can't make it to one, use chicken broth. I have on occasion and it is fine.


Finally, this is really and simply so good, fast, and easy. Do give it a try. Guaranteed hit!

Chicken with Creamy Mushrooms and Snap Peas

I truly enjoy being alone. Alone as opposed to lonely - which I very much dislike. I have always been comfortable spending time with myself and many of the things I most enjoy doing are solitary pursuits or can easily be enjoyed on one's own. Reading, sewing, gardening, walking, even cooking. But one thing that I really dislike is eating alone. It feels ... lonely. There is no one to share the pleasure of good tastes, or the warmth of good conversation and shared interests. I have eaten more meals by myself than I prefer to for the last little bit so I was especially happy to share Sunday dinner with Thomas and Hannah's little family. 

The bonus? It was a fast, easy, and totally delicious meal. Only 25 minutes from beginning prep to first bite. Browning the chicken cutlets in coconut oil instead of the suggested vegetable oil added a lovely, subtle taste of coconut and increased the nutritional value of the meal. 

Chicken with Creamy Mushrooms and Snap Peas

(adapted from Great Easy Meals)

4 chicken cutlets

3 Tbsp flour

1/2 tsp sea salt

1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 Tbsp coconut oil

1 Tbsp butter

4 green onions, thinly sliced

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, thickly sliced or quartered

1 1/4 cups chicken broth

3/4 cups cream

3 cups sugar snap peas, halved lengthwise

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.  Combine the flour, salt, and pepper. Dredge the chicken cutlets in the flour mixture. Melt the coconut oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook the chicken until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to an oven-proof dish and keep warm in the oven while you prepare the vegetables.

Add the butter to the pan. Add the mushrooms and green onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms brown. Pour in the broth and bring to a boil. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the cream and boil until the sauce thickens slightly - 3-4 more minutes. Stir in the snap peas and heat through. Season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve the chicken topped with the creamy vegetables.

Cauliflower and an ancient grain/rice mixture  went well with the chicken and vegetables.